The bar has been raised for all competitors of the KMS Drift Series. Nashville, TN was the setting for Round 7 and it proved to be the best competition round year to date. 48 drivers from 5 States came out to compete and prove that drifting is alive and well in Nashville, TN. Special guest, Nick Thomas, Formula D Driver, put it all out for his fellow drivers and the 800+ spectators that came out to enjoy what KMS is all about… grass roots drifting & keeping it fun.
Thank you from KMS on the great driving and show!
MS Drift I Love Boobies T-Shirt and Sticker $20.00 or $15.00 for shirt and $5.00 for stickers, Proceeds from sales of these special edition breast cancer awareness shirts and stickers will go to www.cindyshopechest.org, whose mission is to support women battling breast cancer emotionally and financially. KMS will be presenting a check to this wonderful organization on October 21st. We invite any survivors to come out and celebrate their victory with us at the event that day.
Winners of the event:
Crowd Favorite- Barry Clapp
Driver Favorite- Tyson Schmidt
Most Smoke- Andrew Lewis
Best Ride Along- Jay Strobino
Hard Luck- Travis Davis (You owe me a Pole LOL)
Most Improved- Chris Green
KMS Pick/Kiss Ass- Scott Busby
Location Pick- Andrew Rodriguez
Best 2 Car Tandem- Tyson Schmidt & Andrew Lewis
Street: 1st- Scott Christopher 2nd- Andrew Rodriguez
3rd- Michael Montanti
So how, exactly, do you live without a car payment?
Here’s the deal. Recent statistics show that one-third of car buyers sign up for a six-year loan at an average interest rate of 9.6%. Among these buyers, the average price of the car is just over $26,000. This means that one-third of the cars you see on the road are dragging a $475 payment behind them.
The car dealer won’t tell you that your awesome new car loses about 25% of its value the instant you drive it off the lot. After four years, your car has lost about 70% of its value!
What does that mean? After six years, you’ve paid almost $33,000 for a $26,000 car, which is now worth maybe $6,000. Not a good deal.
Here’s a new plan. What if you bought a cheap $2,000 car just to get around for 10 months? Then you take that $475—the average car payment—save it every month, and pay for a new car (with cash!), instead of giving it to the bank.
After 10 months of doing that, you’ll have $4,750 to use for that new ride. Add that to the $1,500–2,000 you can get for your old beater, and you have well over $6,000. That’s a major upgrade in car in just 10 months—without owing the bank a dime!
But the fun doesn’t end there. If you keep consistently putting the same amount of money away, 10 months later you would have another $4,750 to put toward a car. You could probably sell that $6,000 vehicle for about the same price you paid 10 months before—meaning you now have $11,000 to pay for a car, just 20 months after this whole process started.
The bottom line with this exercise is simply this—what could you do with that $475 if you weren’t paying for the car every month? Anything you wanted!
Think about it this way: If you were to invest that $475 (remember, this is the average car payment in the U.S.) into a good mutual fund with a 12% rate of return, you would have over $100,000 in 10 years! At 20 years, you would have made $470,000. And at 30 years? That mutual fund would be worth $1.6 million!
The numbers will make your head spin, but it really just comes down to simple math. The less money you are spending on your car every month, the more money you have to put into other more important things: your kids’ college fund, your retirement, and paying off any other debt you might have.
KMS Clean and inspect to find out where it’s leaking
A car leaks through it’s seals and gaskets. Your oil leak can come from a few places and you will need to clean and inspect those areas to find out where it is leaking. Once KMS finds out where it is leaking we will need to replace the seal. Which can vary in cost depending on which seal and how much of the car you have to take apart to get to it.
Here are some ways KMS detects the leaks.
-First KMS clean each of the areas that can leak up with some degreaser and rags so you can see clean metal and allow you to look for new leaks. Check for leaks daily. If you see oil or sludge that is where the leak is!
- Valve cover gaskets. These are common leak points. They cover the valves on your engine. They are the long dome shaped sheet metal covers on top of your engine. You should grab a rag and degrease your engine around the seal where your valve covers bolt on to the top of your engine. If you have a 4 cyl engine you will only have one. If you have a V-6 or V-8 you will have 2 covers. Once you degrease the engine drive it around and check the seal line each day to see if you see oil or sludge leaking down the side. If you do then you have a leak in your valve covers. This is fairly easy to replace and relatively inexpensive even if you aren’t mechanically inclined.
-Oil pan gasket and drain plug. This is the pan at the bottom of your engine that collects all the oil It will have a drain plug in it. These are also common leak points. Same thing here. Clean around the seal between your oil pan and your engine. Put a piece of cardboard underneath your car under the oil pan at night. If you come out in the morning and there is oil on the cardboard look underneath to see where it is coming from. If it is from the oil pan you’ll need to change the oil pan gasket. If it is from the plug you’ll need to change the plug washer. Note!! when you pull out the oil pan or plug all the oil will come out of the car so do this when you are going to change the oil and make sure you have something to catch it in!
-Rear seal. This one is difficult and expensive. There is an oil seal at the rear of your engine near the transmission. Typically it is difficult to see this one but you will know if you have a leak due to lots of blue smoke coming from the underside of the car at the rear of the engine. If you have this problem bring it to a mechanic as the engine will have to be removed to replace the seal.
Do your headlights look like this? Keep reading!
If your headlights look hazy, discolored, and down right disgusting, you are victim to what is called oxidized headlights. You may also hear other similar phrases thrown around such as hazy headlights, cloudy headlights, or foggy headlights. However, don’t assume that it’s from your lack of care for your vehicle as the root cause. In fact, it is quite common and hundreds of thousands of cars face the same problem. Fortunately, anyone can restore their headlights and bring them back to crystal clear condition!
Hazy headlights are dangerous!
Most people do nothing about their cloudy headlights and assume their is no affect on overall visibility. However, that is far from the truth! According to the AAA, foggy headlights can reduce your headlights output by as much as 90%! Not only does it impact your visibility, it also impacts surrounding drivers from seeing you. Therefore, driving at night can become very dangerous and sometimes even fatal.
Why do headlights become hazy?
Most headlights are made from plastic / polycarbonate material. Overtime the clear coat will fade which causes oxidation to occur through normal everyday usage. This oxidation is only accelerated by the strong UV light from the sun if your vehicle is outdoors for long periods of time, tiny dirt, debris, and grime that contacts your headlights while in motion, and any chemicals that range from acidic rain to chemicals used to melt snow.
Let KMS advise you on the right headlight restoration solution for you!
Wheel alignment is important to the health of your car or truck. If you hit a massive pothole, you might bump your suspension out of the carefully calculated locations that the components have been set. All of the elements that make your car go straight are called “alignment.” Some shops try to make it seem like rocket science, but wheel alignment is a fairly straightforward affair. The inclusive term “wheel alignment” involves three main measurements — caster, camber, and toe. These measurements have standards that a technician uses as targets of adjustment. In other words, get as close as you can to the right measurement.
The good news is that most modern cars only have adjustments for toe. Caster and camber went the way of the dodo thanks to the McPherson strut.
Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.
Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.
Too much positive camber will result in premature wear on the outside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.
Too much negative camber will result in premature wear on the inside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.
Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber.
Toe is a measurement of how much the front and/or rear wheels are turned in or out from a straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is positive (+). When the wheels are turned out, toe is negative (-). The actual amount of toe is normally only a fraction of a degree. The purpose of toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel. Toe also serves to offset the small deflections of the wheel support system that occur when the vehicle is rolling forward. In other words, with the vehicle standing still and the wheels set with toe-in, the wheels tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving. Improper toe adjustment will cause premature tire wear and cause steering instability.
The angle between the thrust line and centerline. If the thrust line is to the right of the centerline, the angle is said to be positive. If the thrust line is to the left of center, the angle is negative. It is caused by rear wheel or axle misalignment and causes the steering to pull or lead to one side or the other. It is the primary cause of an off-center or crooked steering wheel. Correcting rear axle or toe alignment is necessary to eliminate the thrust angle. If that is not possible, using the thrust angle as a reference line for aligning front toe can restore center steering.
The sum of the camber and SAI angles in a front suspension. This angle is measured indirectly and is used primarily to diagnose bent suspension parts such as spindles and struts.
Steering Axis Inclination (SAI):
The angle formed by a line that runs through the upper and lower steering pivots with respect to vertical. On a SLA suspension, the line runs through the upper and lower ball joints. On a MacPherson strut suspension, the line runs through the lower ball joint and upper strut mount or bearing plate. Viewed from the front, SAI is also the inward tilt of the steering axis. Like caster, it provides directional stability. But it also reduces steering effort by reducing the scrub radius. SAI is a built-in nonadjustable angle and is used with camber and the included angle to diagnose bent spindles, struts and mislocated crossmembers.
A Resolution You Should Keep: Be Car Care Aware
Resolution 2014- Be Car Care Aware Why not resolve to be car care aware in the coming year? By spending a little time now on preventive maintenance, drivers can save a lot of headaches in the long run and make for a great year on the road, says the non-profit Car Care Council.
“Regular auto care shouldn’t be one of those New Year’s resolutions that goes by the wayside,” said Michele Koss, CFO of KMS Auto Repair, “Preventative vehicle maintenance pays off all year, every year.”
To be car care aware, KMS recommends incorporating the following service interval schedule items as part of your New Year’s resolution:
· Perform monthly checks of tire pressure and the condition of tires, lights and windshield washer fluid. The vehicle should also be cleaned monthly.
· Every three months or per the owner’s manual, check the engine oil and filter, check the levels of other fluids including automatic transmission, power steering and brake, and check the battery and cables, belts and hoses. The exhaust and fuel filter should also be checked at this interval.
· Every six months or 6,000 miles, the chassis lubrication should be checked and windshield wipers should be replaced.
· Every 12 months or 12,000 miles, the brakes, spark plugs, coolant and steering and suspension should be checked.
The KMS website features an online custom service schedule and email reminder service that is available free of charge and can be personalized by motorists to help make vehicle ownership more enjoyable, economical and convenient. There is also a general service schedule that vehicle owners may choose to follow. Drivers should also consult their owner’s manual for specific recommendations by the carmaker.
KMS is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.
Brake System Care
Brake system is a main component in ensurring the car running smoothly. Without the brake system that function properly, most likely you will exprience a road accident.
Brake system is one of the most important element to ensure the car running smoothly. Without a stable braking system, car is likely to be overturned or having to brake while in the fast condition. As car owner, we need to know how to take care brake system to prevent car from damage.
1. Every once a month, check the oil level of your brakes (front of the vacuum pump oil bottle). Make sure the oil is the between the minimum and maximum standards. NEVER DRIVES IF OIL BRAKES LEVEL UNDER MINIMUM LEVELS.
2. Every 6 month when we want rotate our car tires, check the brake pads. Make sure the grip is still thick layer. If we find the claw ‘eats’ is not the same between the left and right, ask the mechanic check the brack oil duct system or brake pressure system due to possible brake pressure exerted on the both brakes are not the same and this is very dangerous to driving, especially braking during high speed. The same thing should be done to brake drum.
3. If there any traces of brake oil discharge (visible paint or any material derived from petroleum melted) in any part, ask the mechanic to examine. Do not take this things lightly because this leaks maybe small but will become larger due to the pressure exerted on it.
4. During adding oil break, make sure the oil brake is correct specification. Dot 3 for normal (usually a car with a disk in front and at rear drum) and Dot 4 for heavy use (for car with four wheel drive system and high powered car). If not sure ask the mechanic because oil brake mistake can cause our whole brake system will be damage especially on seals made of rubber.
5. If there any scratches on the disk or drum, ask mechanics to evaluate whether can be applied again or not. If we want to charge the brake pads, I recommended teaser back the disk or switch to a better drum. These scratches can be an obstacle to the brake pads grip the disc or drum. As a result, the brake will not work.
6. Damage that oftens occurs is brake jam. This occurs because the brake pads do not return floating when we release the brakes and continue to grip the disc. Damage is at the caliper that control brake pad.
7. For auto car, front brake pads will wear faster than rear (usually twice the speed doubles), make sure you always check front brake pads.
8. If you want to modify your car brake system, make sure you get written permission from JPJ because it is the offense and the insurance company will not cover you if the accident occured due to brake system and your brake system has be changed without authorization following JPJ permission level.
9. When driving, avoid the foot from remains on the brake pedals. This can reduce the use of the brake pads.
10. While descending a steep hill, do not use the brakes, otherwise use engine brake (low gear) to control your car speed.
11. If you like to drive fast and aggresive, convert your car brake pads to more resistant to heat, such a project U. Make sure you change the brake oil channel system to coated steel channel. This ensures that your car brake system to function in conditions of pressure and high temperature reaction and response your brakes will be more quickly when pressed pedals.
Many malfunctions that occur in vehicles can be diagnosed as automotive electrical problems. The source of these problems is usually related to the electricity that is being generated by the battery or alternator. Each of these car problems can typically be separated into one of several categories.
Since the battery is the source of electricity for a vehicle, it is no surprise that it is commonly a cause for many automotive electrical problems. Usually the issue is a dead battery, caused when the battery can no longer hold a charge. Sometimes a faulty component of the vehicle can cause a dead battery. Other times it can be a result of leaving a component like the headlights or stereo on for an extended period of time. This problem can usually be remedied rather easily with either a jump-start or a battery recharge. A car battery can also become damaged or simply too old and in need of a replacement.
Another source of a common automotive electrical problem is the vehicle’s alternator. While an automobile is running, the alternator is recharging the battery. Once the alternator breaks, the battery is quickly drained and the vehicle loses power. Sometimes the alternator belt can also wear out or become cracked, leading to a similar malfunction where the battery easily becomes discharged.
Sometimes the source of an electrical problem in a vehicle can be a broken electrical wire or a blown fuse. All of the electrical components of a vehicle are attached to one another through the wires of the electrical system. There are also many vehicle fuses in this wiring, which protect sensitive automobile components from power surges. This is very convenient since it is much less costly to replace a fuse than an expensive auto part.
Some of the most important electrical components are the spark plugs and spark plug wires. When these go bad ,the engine will no longer properly work. This problem can usually be detected when the car runs rough in idle, accelerates poorly, stalls, or is getting bad gas mileage. Bad spark plugs and wires can usually be remedied easily with a tune-up.
Another automotive electrical component that can cause car problems when it goes bad in a solenoid. These magnetic coils are used to distribute power to the starter and to provide the power to open automatic door locks. A bad solenoid can easily be confused with a bad starter or a dead battery, since any of these can cause the engine to not be able to turn over when starting the car.